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This is the Arctic

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    Re: This is the Arctic

    Thank you PanjiS for your words and pictures! What an experience.
    The encounter with the whales must have been magical.
    Keep them coming!
    MS Lofoten April 2006, March 2012, Feb 2013. MS Polarlys Dec 2010. MS Fram Feb 2009, Sep 2011.
    Upcoming : MS Fram Dec 2013, MS Lofoten Sep 2014
    My travelblog : http://voyageterremer.blogspot.com. Hurtigruten, Antarctica, Svalbard, Norway (and other places...).

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      Re: This is the Arctic

      The encounter with the whales must have been magical.
      Thanks Sarnia - Yes I realized it was a quite priviliged encounter when I got back to Iceland and saw the advertisements for sea life watching tours..(we did not look for them and crossed their route) But I did not see any bubble-netting... So it leaves hope for future encounters! I just can't imagine how crowdy it was below the water surface...

      The following day we reached the western part of ScoresbySund, where the National park begins and extends farther north.

      On a walk we met some muskoxen, including a mother and her calf.


      Muskoxen fur is extremely thick:



      Many remnants of the past could be seen:



      Then I realized it is a very remote area, seldom disturbed by humans (I was wondering what the muskoxen were thinking when looking at us...)
      Last edited by PanjiS; November 11th, 2012, 19:06. Reason: photo problem

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        Re: This is the Arctic

        Originally posted by PanjiS View Post
        Many remnants of the past could be seen:

        The scull of a mux-ox, I presume?
        With best regards from Jan-Olav Storli

        Administrator and Owner of CaptainsVoyage.
        Main page: http://www.captainsvoyage.com

        Surround yourself with positive, ethical people who are committed to excellence.

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          Re: This is the Arctic

          Yes, skull of muskox

          Here are other encounters with muskoxen:


          Last edited by PanjiS; November 11th, 2012, 19:07.

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            Re: This is the Arctic

            Now, a few pictures with icebergs and mountains, typical of East Greenland to me:





            Here the water was starting to freeze around the ship

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              Re: This is the Arctic

              Really thrilling for me to see the other side of Greenland, and a different experience in so many ways.
              I like your whale photo, but what is really amazing, and an experience I have not had, is to see musk oxen. The photo #469/2 of several of these extraordinary animals is specially attractive to me, I think because they are in line with the trend of the vegetation, sloping across the lower half of the picture. The colours of the lichen are really lovely, and I like the combination of the browns and creams of the land and the icebergs in post #470

              If ehp, aka Lady E, sees this, she will be drooling for hours over the photo of the musk ox fur. The yarn from this is apparently the absolute ultimate for knitters. I still feel guilty that I didn't know about this when I had opportunity to buy some wool for her in Greenland!

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                Re: This is the Arctic

                These are fantastic photos!! I love 470/1 - looks like a frozen whale!! Thanks for sharing these with us.
                Cheers,

                Mark.

                www.pologlover.co.uk

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                  Re: This is the Arctic

                  @seagull: do they sell things made out of muskox fur in Greenland ? I didn't have to chance to see what is sold for tourists or even in their supermarkets..

                  I loved the fjords when they were starting to freeze at night or when it was frozen ealy in the morning before the ship broke off the small ice that was formed. They were very peaceful moments...


                  What I loved also was the mirror-like water we were lucky to have sometimes. I guess it was one of the more magical moments for me.


                  Early in the morning before starting the day.


                  This evening was the biggest moment for me I guess. I even skipped dinner (and was the only one up on deck in the end). I just could not get myself to go inside...
                  Last edited by PanjiS; December 1st, 2012, 19:17.

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                    Re: This is the Arctic

                    I have been dipping in and out of Cecilia's account of her voyage to Greenland for a long time and now that PanjiS is contributing such atmospheric photos from the eastern side of Greenland there is emerging an excellent overall feeling for a country that comparatively few people know. The picture becomes even more vivid if Cecilia's account of the Greenlanders in the People of the World forum is woven in with this thread.
                    It is no use my trying to single out individual images in this thread, for together they present a compelling kaleidoscope which I enjoy so much.
                    Thank you both.
                    Ivy

                    "To thine own self be true.......
                    Thou canst not then be false to any man."

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                      Re: This is the Arctic

                      As you seem to like it, let's continue the voyage...

                      Here are photos taken in Bear islands. Quite picturesque. I was a bit tired because of extensive time spent on deck by day and night, and I took the leasurely walk (which means stay by the shore), but I guess the more strenuous one would have given me a better "overview" of the place...



                      Details of rocks and kayakers (the day before some lucky kayakers were fortunate enough to spot a swimming polar bear, who was surprised and glided into the water ...)

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                        Re: This is the Arctic

                        Originally posted by PanjiS View Post
                        @seagull: do they sell things made out of muskox fur in Greenland ? I didn't have to chance to see what is sold for tourists or even in their supermarkets..sometimes. I guess it was one of the more magical moments for me.
                        It was things made from sealskin that one saw in abundance. There was also the traditional style carvings called “tupilaks” made from reindeer antler or walrus tooth, and jewellery from stone, minerals, or bone.
                        It was actually when we were in Kangerlussuaq, in the building we used as a base between excursions that last day, where I became aware of the musk ox wool. It was on sale at the place there where coffee and refreshments were available. One of our guides was an expert knitter and was informing another person how much wool would be required to make a hat like the one she was wearing, and they were discussing knitting patterns. I saw them winding a skein of wool into a ball ready for knitting while we were waiting for the bus.

                        Ivy, so glad you are enjoying the thread.

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                          Re: This is the Arctic

                          Again, nice mountains and icebergs - there were plenty - at one point we event had to stop and turn back to take another route as bergy bits were too many while approaching a glacier.



                          Here, quite an unusual sight for Greenland - I would imagine those rocks elsewhere. We stopped and walked in a canyon I would have pictured well in Jordan or something.
                          Last edited by PanjiS; December 1st, 2012, 19:16.

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                            Re: This is the Arctic

                            One of the activities I enjoyed most was zodiac cruising to see and feel the ice (icebergs, glacier front). Once I asked people on board the zodiac if they could try and make no noise at all for 5 minutes (I got the 5 minute's silence idea from a previous trip) and this was something... in fact ice makes so much noise! This moment was also magical to me.



                            Eielson glacier, Rypefjord


                            Last edited by PanjiS; December 1st, 2012, 19:27.

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                              Re: This is the Arctic

                              A perfect morning surrounded by ice


                              I had never seen a halo before but could see many during this trip


                              Blue ice
                              Last edited by PanjiS; December 1st, 2012, 19:19.

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                                Re: This is the Arctic

                                Apologies for my previous reply #476 popping up after you had started posting more photos!
                                The reflections in #478 are amazing. What a great image. And in #479, the contrast of bare rock and the ice …and the tiny-looking zodiac boat. Immediately followed by yet more wonders –not only a halo but that rounded form of the ice, completing a stunning picture.

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